Get Your Greek On

Since I will be traveling with a group of friends to Greece in May, and none of them have been there before, I thought I would share this list of things Americans might not know about traveling in Greece.  Everything on this list is just second nature to me now, but it occurred to me that some things might be foreign, or even shocking, to some people. 

Let’s start easy, with everyone’s favorite subject, FOOD! 

α) Dinner

• Get used to eating dinner later. Sure, restaurants in tourist areas will be open earlier than the locals eat, and it’s fine for you to stick to your normal, American, dinner around 6pm schedule in those places.  Hey, eating early is a sure way to score a table in places that will be packed later. But, if you want a more lively experience, plan on dinner after (or way after) 8pm. You’re on vacation anyway. Do you really have to be somewhere the next day so early that you can’t stay out late?
• Don’t be in a hurry. When you get that table, it’s yours. No one is going to rush you. Put down the phone, talk to your companions, and savor your food. Again, where are you in a hurry to run off to?
• Portions may be quite large. It is normal to share small plates and entrees. Sharing around the table is a great way to experience more dishes too, and don’t you want to try them all?
• After you have lingered over your meal and had a glass of the house wine, or two, or three, it’s time for the bill.  You can use the universal bring-me-the-check hand gesture, though chances are your waiter speaks English. But, here’s the thing, don’t expect that bill to arrive quickly. You may even have to ask for it several times. Some places make you beg for the bill.  It would be rude to rush you, and your server will take his/her sweet time bringing it to you. Don’t ever sit down for a meal in a Greek taverna if you are in a hurry.
• Tipping. Not expected, but appreciated. 10% is a good rule, or simply round up for smaller transactions. It’s good to have some small bills or euro coins for this because you can rarely add it when paying by card.
• When the bill does come, it might be accompanied by a small sweet treat and/or a little shot of liquor.  In Crete, the liquor will be tsikoudia (also known as raki). Declining it will get you uninvited to Crete, maybe shot.  They are not charging you for these things, they are on the house, a sign of hospitality and thanks. Take it as a sign that you were a good guest, and got an A. By all means, DON’T refuse it. That would be rude.

β) Breakfast

• Okay, it’s the next morning. I hope you opted for the hotel breakfast. I have yet to meet a Greek hotel breakfast that wasn’t fabulous. I highly recommend taking advantage of it. It saves a lot of time for exploring and sightseeing rather than finding food in the morning.  Unless you know the location of a traditional Greek bakery (don’t even get me started, they are out of this world amazing), the hotel breakfast is the way to go.

γ) Cheap eats, on the go

• For a quick and cheap meal, visit a counter-service souvlaki joint. Just observe everyone else if it is not obvious how to queue up and order. For goodness sake, don’t say GY-ro, that’s painful to Greek ears.  The G is soft, almost more like a y. Say YEE-ro. Look for another post coming soon on how to order this classic cheap and quick meal. Don’t think about it too much, just get what everyone else is getting and you won’t be disappointed.
• Bakeries. A hunk of spinach pie (spanakopita) or cheese pie (tyropita) makes a great little meal. By the way, there is virtually no vegetable Greeks will not put into a pie – leeks, wild greens, spinach, mushrooms, artichokes, etc etc etc. All fabulous.

δ) Greek Cuisine

• This should go without saying, but in case you are daft, here we go:  Stick to Greek food! Sure, you can get international cuisine in cities, but why would you do that? If you only know Greek cuisine from the USA, you’re missing out. In the USA, things have been adapted to American tastes (lettuce in a gyro wrap, anyone, blech!), the ingredients aren’t fresh and local, the use of great quality olive oil is either nonexistent or downright skimpy.  It’s just not the same. Greek food in Greece is going to blow your mind and you will crave it for years to come.
• Greek coffee – I want you to try it, but this is a whole different post. Coming soon!

Okay, now for the not so pretty.

ε) Graffiti

• I hear Americans and Brits bitch about this all the time.  Athens is full of graffiti, they whine.  Okay, so, yeah, that’s true.  But let’s distinguish those things you see spray painted all over.  There is tagging (nonsense garbage only sensible to the ones doing it), graffiti (a step above tagging, sometimes political in nature and can be interesting), and bona-fide street art (often fascinating murals by highly talented artists, done in permissible areas and sometimes even commissioned, often with a message).   If you want to understand this and see some examples that you won’t encounter on your own, book a street art tour with a local artist. Message me and I’ll share with you the one we did. It was worth the time and the small expense. 

ζ) Toilets

• Ah, the infamous toilet paper issue. This one freaks some people out. Let me be blunt. The toilet paper simply does not go in the toilet, EVER! See that little bin, usually the step-can sort, next to the toilet?  Yeah, that’s where your soiled toilet tissue goes.  Yes, even for #2.  Get used to it, that’s just the way it is. Want to cause a flood in the bathroom and be hated by everyone – sure, flush it and see what happens.  The local plumbing simply can’t handle it.  You might consider bringing with you a handheld, collapsible bidet bottle. Tushy makes one that is actually pretty good.

η) Smoking

• Let’s just say that Greece’s smoking rate is higher than the EU average. According to which sources you use, the smoking rate in Greece is somewhere between 30% and 40%. So, you are going to encounter smoke.  Your taxi driver from the airport will probably be smoking. The guy drinking coffee or beer at the outside table next to you might be smoking. I like to joke that the real Greek breakfast is a coffee and a cigarette. All I can say is, we are guests here, just try to accept it.

I’ll call this next section Do Your Homework

θ) Walking

• If the sofa is your best friend, increase your step count now. Short distances are best covered on foot and archaeological sites and points of interest are often located on top of hills, with many steps.
• Ditch the cutesy sandals and for god’s sake, wear comfortable shoes. There’s no reason to be in pain and miserable. You are going to be doing a lot of walking and pavement may be very uneven and broken. Hint: marble can be darn slippery!

ι) Ferry schedules

• Woe to the person who books island accommodations without taking into consideration how they are going to get from island to island.  Investigate routes and schedules first!
• p.s. ferries operate at the mercy of winds and sea conditions, not to mention pesky things like strikes. So, be sure to have a little cushion between returning from an island vacation and your international flight home.

κ) The Greek Language

• This is a topic near and dear to my heart. I started with just wanting to learn a few phrases and it became an obsession. Look, the Greeks know they have a difficult language, and they don’t expect you to speak it. Also, tourism is a huge part of the economy and most people in the industry speak English.  BUT, you should be a good guest and learn a handful of words, at least.  I have been met with nothing but bemused delight when I speak Greek.  There are plenty of YouTube videos that will teach you some handy words for travel. Learn at least hello, thank you, please, good morning, etc.

And finally, cats!

• What else would you expect from Tres Gatos Travel?  There are cats everywhere. Some are lucky to be treated as community pets and well cared for even if they don’t have one “owner”. Many aren’t so lucky and suffer terrible health ailments. If you want to do something, contribute to a local organization that spays/neuters and provides vet care. Also, bring (or buy there) cat treats to dispense liberally.  You’ll make feline friends, warm your heart and get great photos.

Was any of this new to you, surprising, shocking?  Drop me a line and let me know what you think.